T'was the Night Before Christmas

Well, it actually is the night before Christmas right now in India, and here I sit in an internet cafe sorting out the next couple of days. Of course, it feels nothing like Christmas here, it is almost completely ignored, which as you all know, is fine with me.

So we left Delhi last night (23rd) at about 6:30 PM. Our overnight train to Jaisalmer was scheduled to leave at 6:30 PM, but was cancelled. Of GAP tour leader said prepare to scramble onto the train, and with that, we were off to Delhi train station.

We scrambled into taxis with our luggage, and headed out in this city of 14 million people during evening rush hour. We drove over a pile of re-bar, across a pile of gravel which almost tipped the cab, then on past cows, horses and chickens. We drove past a huge unprotected open pit, and then with a laugh past 2 big black pigs. With that, we launched into Delhi traffic.

Words cannot describe our journey, it was beyond even previous trips. There were literally hundreds of near misses each few minutes. At one point, we drove onto the sidewalk to get around a bus traffic jam.

We arrived at Delhi train station on time, and with a few platform changes, jammed ourselves into a train for which we had no tickets. Our original tickets were for a berth for each of us, but we ended up with 4 seats for 16 people. What ensued after that was hours of chaos, as people boarded and exited the train, but mostly boarded.

Our final toll was 7 of us in 4 bunks, and the rest of the group in an unheated car in the freezing night of the Rajastani desert. There was also the usual screaming children, and their parents who would not shut up all night. It was not a pretty site.

What was pretty however, was our arrival in the city of Jaisalmer at 2:30PM the next day. We were exhausted, but thrilled to be there. You may recognize it as being that Indian city with a beautiful fort high above it, as featured in the Amazing Race - stunning.

What was even more amazing was the fact our hotel is situated right inside the fort, actually near the top, with absolutely stunning views. We settled in and got cleaned up, took a brief tour, then went out for another fabualous Indian dinner.

Oh yes, in case you were wondering, the military is everywhere here. Tanks, equipment and personnel were all along the rail line heading to this area - hey we are only miles from the Pakistani border. Even as I type, jet fighters are sceaming overhead.

So, are we worried? Of course not. Tomorrow, Christmas Day, we head out into the desert on camels to stay overnight in tents. We plan on exchanging tacky gifts by the bonfire. Yes, camels, desert, heading west on Christmas Day... it will be hard not to do the Three Wise Men thing. Hey, where is my frankenscence?

Merry Chistmas to all....