Heading South - Orissa - Andhra Prahesh - Tamil Nadu

After our wonderful private dance show, we were back to Puri, and one hotel room was still available, so we freshened up for our long trip going south.

We got to the train station on time, but for some reason the train was absolute chaos, and there was not a seat to be found in sleeper class. We were supposed to travel for about 2 hours, then change to another train, so we tried our luck in second class - standing room only.

I was kind of pissed off, but as we got rolling, the usual started happening to me. A nice guy tapped me on the shoulder, and asked where I was from/did I like India/ did I like Indian Railways? Turns out he was an Indian Railways staff person, travelling on his pass. He saw that I got on to cattle class, so he decided to get on too in the hope he could talk to me. It is so strange, you really are kind of a celebrity here, I am actually getting comfortable chatting with complete strangers. The group is joking about it, as an earlier person chatting to me told me I looked like James Bond (which one I did not ask!).

Anyway, unknown to me, while I was having this nice conversation, the ladies in the group were being harassed and groped. A quick call by Issac, our wonderful group leader, and we jumped off at the next station. And jumped I did, I was last off holding 3 packs, Issac yelling "do you have my suitcase?". "Well no, I have my hands full" as I threw the packs, and jumped from the moving train. Issac chased the train down the deserted platform yelling for his case - and of course the nice people on the train tossed it to him.

So, here we are in this creepy dark railway station in the middle of nowhere, waiting for our trusty SUV driver to rescue us - GAP had approved the extra expenditure given the circumstances.

Along comes the SUV, and we go hurtling into the night traffic at break-neck speed. Travelling the roads of India is super-scary, travelling them at night is just terrifying! Lights of huge trucks come towards you and swerve at the last minute, missing you by inches. We pass everything that moves, and manage not to hit anyone - I have no idea how.

Anyway, we make it to our next station, the train is early, on we hop, and this time we have sleeping berths together. We all snuggle in for a good night's sleep.

Next moring we awake to the chorus of vendors (chai-chai... chai-chai-chai), have a little breakfast and chai, then arrive at our destination, Vijayawada, at about noon. We tuk-tuk it to our very nice hotel. First observations, South India is much cleaner and nicer than the North.

We hit a couple of temples in the afternoon, including the Kanakadurga Temple, built right into the rocks.















Later that afternoon, we visit a more conventional temple high above the city. It is at this point we realize we are literally the only tourist in the city. Everyone is staring and fascinated by us - the brave ones coming up and asking to take our pictures, or to talk to us. I asked our guide why someone would want a picture of us when they have no idea who we are. He gave a great reply - If we go to a native Indian village tomorrow, and there is a woman there in traditional dress, would you want her picture? OK, I get it.

Next day was a very long travel journey further south to Tamil Nadu, and Issac's hometown of Mamallapuram. We transfer to a commuter train in Chennai, crossing town quickly, then south by luxury bus we happened to catch on a corner - Issac is really in his element here.

Beautiful hotel in Mamallapuram, with pool and rooftop restaurant - Ah nice.

Next morning we head out on bicycles to tour the town. We have our own private guide who shows us the highlights of this amazing town. We hit a group of rock temples carved out of solid rock, in an area with amazing natural rock formations as well. See picture of Neil saving the town from a rolling rock - hey, you would do the shot too if you were here!















After that temple, it was off to a couple of World Heritage Sights, namely the Shore Temple and the Five Rathas (chariots). Both were spectacular, and visiting them on bikes was lots of fun.

After the temples, it was off to a very special lunch at a village destroyed by the 2004 tsunami. The lunch was a whole RP 200, 100 of which went directly to village projects. Issac was greeted like a star, as he came to the village after the tsunami to help rebuild it. We watched the fisherman bring in and divide their catch, then went back to the village for our banana leaf lunch - including Coconut Fish!

We talked about the tsunami, and the effect it had had on the villager's lives. We learned that the government and charities were actually doing quite a bit to help things recover. We felt good to be part of the effort.


















Later that night it was out to a traditional dance performance, with the spectacular rock temple as a backdrop. It was the last night of a month long dance festival, and of course our trusty guide had gotten us seats near the front.