Oh Calcutta

As you may have noticed, I seem to have gotten into my travel groove, in India, of all places. Up until now, I have been somewhat apprehensive at times about this whole trip. But now, I find myself an island of calm in the storm that is India. Maybe it just took the right place to show me how to relax. Maybe it was the near death experience on the Indian motorway. Maybe it was just the passage of five months on the road. Anyway, I am loving it all now.

I hung around Varanasi for a few days after my GAP group left. I must admit, I mainly stuck to the hotel, for its great food, did a lot of internet (I am almost caught up), and hung around the ghats, day and night.

I did my first train travel alone, and it was a breeze. I got to the station, and this helpful guy looked at my ticket, said the train was late (what else is new?) and directed me to the "foreigners" waiting room. Kind of like the Lufthansa lounge, without the comfy chairs, food and free drinks. And there were a few of us foreigners there, including a guy from Toronto I had run into on a previous train. He was also taking the train to Calcutta.

When it was announced three hours late, we just went to track 5, found my car, A1 and located my seat/berth. I got comfortable for the 14 hour overnight journey. The porter brings you a pillow, two sheets and a blanket. I was in AC 2 tier, which means the bunks are stacked in 2's rather than 3's. It is the class right behind 1st class, and set me back $22 for my trip to Calcutta. I just love sleeping on the train, rocking back and forth. I locked my pack to a tie ring, and covered my small bag with the valuables with a white towel (also provided), and slept with it by my pillow - truly no worries.

I arrived in Calcutta having briefly looked at a Lonely Planet book the night before. I quickly found the ferry outside the station, decided the first destination was where I wanted to go (I had no clue where it went) and headed across the fast moving and very polluted river.

I arrived on the other side in a very busy commercial area, stalls jamming the streets and traffic everywhere. This is where packing light comes in handy. I just walked along, in the general direction of south and east, where I thought the backpackers area was. I walked for about an hour, getting vague directions from very friendly people. Funny, I am careful with my bag, but I just don't feel threatened here - people are generally great (or just want to sell you something).

Anyway, after walking an hour in the heat (it was about 25 degrees) I decided a cab was needed to really find my destination. RP 50 ($1) to get to Sudder Street. I spotted the Fairlawn Hotel, which was sold out for my dates, but got off there anyway. I planned to ask for a hotel recommendation.

Well, guess what, they had a vacancy to 2 nights. I needed 6, but since it was over my budget, 2 was a great option. This place has character and characters everywhere. Thanks, Andrea, for suggesting it.

If you want to check out their website, it is www.fairlawnhotel.com Check out the matriarch of the place, Mrs. Violet Smith. She was sitting at a nearby table at breakfast this morning. I was thinking of my friend Tony Cruickshank, who would just love this kind of place. Is a matter of fact, I gave Tony and Phil a call this morning - great to hear your voices.

It is now teatime at the Fairlawn, so will head across the street for that, and later tonight, a G&T for Tony.

Cheers from Calcutta

PS, not a slum or "black hole of" in site!