A New Country to check off the list

Just a quick update to let you all know I have arrived in yet another new country - Vietnam. We flew from Vientiane to Hanoi yesterday, and are settled into a city most people do not associate with vacation travel.

Hanoi is an interesting city, steeped in history, with fascinating architecture, and crazy traffic. I call it India Lite. We went to Ho Chi Mihn's tomb today, rather somber and creepy, but a must on the travel list for this city.















We also have toured around the old quarter getting completely lost. When I tried to walk back to the hotel this afternoon, I got close, then completely twisted around, and ended up right back where I started. It was then that I realized that this trip is affecting me, when one of the motorcycle cabs said "where to?", I showed him my hotel card and asked for a price. I hopped on the back and off we went weaving and twisting through some of the craziest traffic you have ever seen. Death wish, I don't think so, just realized it was not as dangerous as it appeared, and I must admit, a lot of fun.

Some people are leaving this phase of the tour, and others are joining us. The GAP trip "Indochina Encompassed" is actually three trips linked together.

We are off to beautiful Halong Bay tomorrow and we sleep under the stars (or in a cabin) in our boat tomorrow night. More updates when I am back in town.

A Nice Capital in a Lovely Country

I have described Laos as a wonderful country with friendly people and lots of interesting things to do. So it seems fit that it has such a nice little capital city - Vientiane. Like the country, Vientiane is laid back, peaceful and friendly. Our group was discussing it, and we all agree if you want to see the real Laos, you better get there soon; this country is on the verge of being discovered.

First of all, I mentioned that Ollie and I did a day of tubing down the river. Actually we swam and didn't bother with tubes. It was absolutely insane, with 6 bars you travel to, lots of very dangerous swings. We just had drinks and took it all in. I am old enough to be most of the customer's fathers, but they didn't seem to care (or notice). It was actually kind of fun, in a Spring Break kind of way. We did not bring our cameras, so the only way I can convey what it was like is a youtube video. Please try the attached link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KSv8SxKeBM

After Vang Vieng, we took a nice little 3 hour bus ride to the capital, checked into our guesthouse, and spent 2 days exploring the city. The only drawback was that it was insanely hot, about 34 degrees, the sun just scorching and fairly high humidity. But we made the best of it, walking around checking out the sites, eating out in some very nice restaurants (there are many French ones in the capital), and just generally enjoying South East Asia's nicest little capital city.

"Friends" in Laos

Aw, how nice, you must have said when you read the title. Neil must have made some wonderful new friends in Laos..... well, not quite....

Hum, where to start? I am in the very scenic little town of Vang Vieng, Laos. It sits on a lovely river in a valley surrounded by spectacular jagged mountains - breathtaking. The town itself has kind of a seedy "wild west" feel to it. It is very much a travellers town, with thousands of 20 something backpackers hanging out for weeks on end.

And there is lots to do here - biking, rock climbing, caving, kayaking, but the most popular activity is floating down the river in inner tubes. Everyone does it to keep cool in the 35 degree (95 F) heat, but mostly they do it to travel to the six different bars catering to the tubers on the riverbanks. Once you get very drunk, you may want to try the ziplines or other dangerous activities set up for you. The town has a very busy hospital, several people have died recently, and many people in town are walking around with casts, bandages, or other injuries!

By evening, everyone in town is walking around in board shorts and bikinis blitzed out of their minds, if they have managed to survive the day.

And if that was not enough, the most popular drink in town is a "happy shake" which might go quite nicely with a "happy pizza". Our guide warned us, so we are all being careful. So, now you are drunk and stoned, what to do next?

Well, some time ago, one of the bar owners discovered that drunk and stoned Westerners really like to watch reruns of the show "Friends". His bar soon became the most popular in town, so now EVERY other bar has copied him.

There are dozens (no I am not exaggerating) of bars all playing Friends reruns in this town. If not Friends, a few have branched out into the Simpsons and one even shows Family Guy. It is almost impossible to go to a bar or restaurant and avoid it (we tried).

They also play the Friends DVD's on a three episode loop, so even when you are really stoned, you at some point realize that you have already seen this Friends, and get up and finally leave.

The bars are packed, the patrons all look like vegetables, and it is just so weird... you know I could not make stuff like this up!

That being said, Ollie and I are going tubing this afternoon, with instructions to behave ourselves... should be fun. And with GAP's stringent no drugs policy, we will not be consuming "happy" anything.

More soon from Vietnam, my "friends".

Luang Prabang, Laos

Well, this is it, perhaps the most perfect little town on Earth. How do I describe such a place. Why after all of my travels, has this place made such an impression on me?

Well, to start with, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Not just a building, not a complex, but the whole town has that designation! It was given it for it's unique combination of Lao and French Colonial Architecture that is so well preserved. Everything in the town is on a small scale, with no ugly billboards or signs to mar its beauty.

It is definitely a travellers town. Streets and alleyways are overflowing with cute little guesthouses, and there are great bars and restaurants to eat in everywhere. The town sits where a small river meets the Mekong, and many of the bars and restaurants are on stilts at the top of the riverbanks, with fabulous views.

This is Laos, afterall, so everything is absurdly cheap. You know when you go into a rather fancy restaurant and comment that $3.50 seems a little steep for dinner, that you are getting used to Lao prices. You decide to eat there anyway, because the atmosphere is so nice, and the food is great.

It is just the kind of place you could hang out in for weeks, probably not accomplishing anything, and not really caring. The whole country of Laos is sort of that way - very laid back.















We did manage a trip to a beautiful set of waterfalls, which you can see more of on my flickr account. Some of the group went elephant riding, but I have been there/done that in Bali and Thailand. I just wandered around town with a big smile on my face, drinking it all in.

If you get a chance, come to this wonderful little gem of a town!

Slow Boat down the Mekong

Yes, I think the name almost says it all - slow boat down the Mekong, an amazing way to pass two days. I have seen many of the world's great rivers - the Amazon, the Nile, the Ganges, the Orinocco... now the mighty Mekong.

We took 2 very luxurious minivans (yah GAP) from Chiang Mai, up to Chiang Rai, then on to Chiang Khong on the Thai - Burma - Laos border. Yes, this is the area, check it out on a map... the Golden Triangle! Even China is quite close, making this an amazing strategic area of the world.

We stayed in a nice little guesthouse right on the river, and went out for a wonderful Thai dinner. The town is really small, but has a certain charm to it.

Next morning we were up early to breakfast, the guesthouse packed lunches for us, and we headed over to the river, and Thai exit formalities. It was fairly well organized, and before you know it, we were on narrow little riverboats with our luggage zipping across the river into Laos.

Luckily, our guide had taken our passports and arranged for Lao visas in Bangkok, so we breezed through compared to most people. First impressions of Laos, nice, quiet, peaceful, some French and they drive on the right side of the road!!! Weird after so many months, kind of confusing - I know I will crash into someone when I first start driving at home.

We find our Slow Boat among the many, pack in our bags, take off our shoes (it is someone's house) and away we go motoring down the river. A couple of points - slow boat, in that there are fast boats flying by us, passengers wearing helmuts, flying down the Mekong - does not look comfortable. Also, our captain and his wife and two kids live on board the boat - very cool.














If you are ever stressed out to the max and want to really relax, this is the way to do it. The Mekong is quiet, just a few villages on the banks, it flows smooth and fast, and the scenery is just fabulous. There is not much to do but read, catch up on your journal, play cards, eat and drink beer Lao.














We stopped overnight in the sleepy Lao village of Pak Beng, chock a block full of nice restaurants, bars and guesthouses. We had a wonderful Indian dinner (memories!) and great early morning breakfast, then we were back on our boat heading down to Luang Prabang.

The captain's wife served us up a wonderful traditional Lao home cooked lunch on the second day, which just added to the absolute charm of the experience.


















We stopped at the Buddha caves later on the second day, then at a village where the made Lao-Lao, the local firewater. It was vile and disgusting, and we all had two glasses! We then had the opportunity to buy some local crafts - the weaving and fabrics in Laos are just fantastic, plus it helps a local village.

Late afternoon we arrived in Luang Prabang, Laos, where I sit now in an internet cafe. I am trying to figure out how to describe this place, it is absolutely fantastic. It is probably the nicest little town in the world, and we are spending three days here.

Alas, more to come, but its time to go down by the Mekong River for sunset and have a cold Lao beer.

Chiang Mai Cooking School

It was quite wonderful to be back in Chiang Mai again. Robert, Laurie, Glenn and I were there way back in 1990, my first big trip across the globe. We liked it, and it still has all the charm it did back then.

Many of you know that I read a wonderful book before I left called "First Trip Around the World" a Planning Guide to the Ultimate Adventure. It had all kinds of great advice, including taking only one carry-on sized bag - an excellent tip.

One of the many things it recommended was taking cooking classes as you travel. I took and enjoyed a class in Udaipur, India, plus we had an informal one in Kerala. When the opportunity came up for one in Chiang Mai, I jumped at it, as did 3 others in my GAP group.

We were joined by quite a few others from other guest houses, and a total of 20 of us took the course. They were well organized and had several instructors. We each got to cook 6 courses, with about 5 choices in each course - amazing.

We started at a local market, shopping for ingreadients, and being taught about the spices and vegetables we did not know about. We hopped into our tuk-tuks and headed for the school.

We each wore a name tag, with our name written phonetically in Thai for our instructor to understand. She in turn, wrote her name phonetically in English - Meow (like cat, as she said).

She was absolutely hilarious, and a good cooking teacher to boot. My second favourite line of the day (spoken in a high sing song Thai accent)... "you put lots of chilis in... very good, taste good, but next day your ass sore..." Best line of the day.... "wash your hands after touching chillis, don't touch your eyes... gentlemen, wash hands before going to the bathroom, otherwise you get chilli-willy". She had us in stiches most of the day.














I got a cookbook, and learned to make -

Breakfast chicken curry garnished with crispy noodles
Tom Yan Soup
Green Chicken Curry
Chicken Stir Fry with Cashews
Mango with Sticky Rice

And yes, I will have you all over for a fabulous Thai (and Indian) dinner when I return!

Overnight Train in Thailand

This blog is dedicated to all the wonderful new friends I travelled with on the overnight trains in India... you guys will understand!

First of all, we caught a cab in Bangkok for the train station. Traffic was heavy, but everyone was in cars or motorcycles and driving in lanes - how weird is that? Not a cow, push cart, or stray dog to be seen.

We arrive at the Bangkok train station, and it is small and calm. We grab a bite to eat, and get on a very modern train that is on time. Each side of the aisle has two seats facing each other, and only one person is supposed to sit in each seat (not 5!). You sit down, and can order food or....... beer! Yah! They set up the table and continue to pester you to order more beer, as they are on commission (they told us that!).

At bed time, a porter comes along, pulls down the single bed above the bottom one, makes them both up with fresh sheets, a big fluffy pillow, and a top cotton blanket. Oh yes, the windows are sealed because the A/C is working perfectly. You close your private curtain (top and bottom) and fall to sleep. Four people are sleeping where 8 would be in India. You don't sleep on the seat cushions, there are separate foamies that the porter sets up for you... heaven.















You are awakened the next morning near Chiang Mai to coffee, tea, and a full breakfast.

Must admit, I do miss the chai-chai-chai

One Night in Bangkok

Well, I left the calm of Babylon, and headed across town to the starting hotel for my next GAP journey - the Royal. It wasn't too bad, good location, quite large, an OK pool and nice restaurants. There were 3 different GAP groups meeting on Monday night, plus 2 other tours, minor bedlam inhe lobby.

Our group of 15 met with our tour leader, Erin, a nice young 29 year old from the U.S. There was the usual majority of Canadians, with a couple of Americans, 2 Brits now living in Australia, and another Brit with her crazy Irish husband (who is my new drinking buddy) - so we all spoke English well, in one form or another.

Erin took us around the corner for dinner, to an area I had not discovered on my walk the day before - Khao San Road. It is a backpackers area just hopping with action. Restaurants, bars, street food, shops, stalls, massage you name it, it is all there. Especially in the evening, it is packed with people. After a great dinner with the new group, I hung out there for an hour just taking in the atmosphere.














The next morning, we were up fairly early for complimentary breakfast at the hotel. It was a huge spread, which is also going to be the description of me if I don't stop eating so much! Then we were off to a one hour trip on a long boat along the Chao Phraya River, and up the many canals in the city. Life along the canals is fascinating.

After we came ashore, we took a short walk to the huge Wat Pho temple complex. The Thai style is so different after India, so I am not on temple overload again (yet). We went into the two largest temples, including the giant reclining Buddha. It is so huge, you can only get shots of sections of him. I think I got a real nice one, if you want to check my flickr page.


















Tonight we are taking the overnight train to Chaing Mai. It sounds like a few steps up from my Indian train experience. It is air-conditioned, and Erin says they make up your bed for you - and only stacked in 2's, not 3's.

More from Northern Thailand soon.

Oh, by the way, the heat here is so intense. I keep imagining who would hate it more - Robert or Dwayne. They could have a contest to see who could create the biggest puddle of sweat! Miss both of you guys lots.

A Garden of Earthly Delights

Thai Airways from Mumbai to Bangkok was practically empty - an Airbus A330 that could hold 260 people with 70 pax on board. Business Class, in a 2-2-2 configuration, had 42 seats - 8 occupied. I had second row centre pair, with an empty seat beside me, and both seats in front and behind also not occupied.

I endulged in Rack of Lamb with a red Bordeaux, and guess what.... after 2 months in India with not the slightest stomach problem, my tummy in now protesting in Bangkok. That smug sound you hear in the distance is my sister - I told you to go vegetarian she said!

Anyway, arrive at the huge new (relatively) Bangkok Airport, to what now appeared to be fairly well organized chaos, after the true chaos of India. I had chickened out, and sure enough, my private limo driver was there with my name on a sign. *Uhmm, Neil, you are supposed to be a budget traveller....*. Into a very comfortable air conditioned Lexus, and off we go on a multi laned expressway, with not a tuk-tuk, motorcycle, cow, stray dog or pedestrian in site. Really, Bangkok does seem First World after India.

Get to Babylon Bangkok, and they are quite candid with me - the "Barracks" room I was supposed to be staying in had some bed bug problems. Barracks rooms are beautiful, with two beds and luxurious shared bathrooms - sauna style. Instead, I would have a portion of a villa, not yet fully furnished. My room was huge, containing a king and full sized bed, plus gigantic private bath, finished in earth-toned marble and slate, with a shower big enough for three people. Hmmm, this would do.














So, what can I say about Babylon? It is an oasis of calm in the middle of bustling Bangkok. There are villas and a six story building. The reception and its bar are open air, with fans cooling it day and night, as even the evenings are hot in Bangkok. You can also get some wonderful food in every bar there.

I had paid about $55 per night for my room, seemingly expensive for Thailand. But this includes a gourmet breakfast in a beautiful 6th floor lounge with a view of the Bangkok skyline. Also included are 2 passes each day to the Babylon Spa and Sauna.

The Sauna is the usual gay style type, everyone wearing towels wandering around. Only in this case there are hundreds of guys. And where are they wandering around...? Three floors of rooms and mazes, countless showers, dry saunas, wet saunas, jacuzzis, video rooms, massage rooms and places to get your hair cuts.

Also attached is a huge outdoor pool with sun beds and open bar. Next to that, you can leave your towel on (everyone does) and eat in a gourmet restaurant (yesterday - duck sausage on a bed of al-dente bow tie pasta with apples and mushrooms). There is also another open air bar with stage, where they played soft jazz in the early evening, and put on an over the top drag show later on.

I have never worn a towel for 12 hours before, and felt so civilized... OK maybe a little sleazy. It is truly a fantasy world for gay men.

I think I will stay here a few days when I get back from my Indochina Encompassed tour, then perhaps head down to Pattaya.

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A Travel Update

Just so nobody worries (that would be my dear sister, Laurie), an update of the next week, and why you likely won't be seeing any new blogs for awhile.

I am spending Feb 9, 10 and 11 chilling on Calangute Beach, here in Goa. I have my favourite beach shack/chairs, and the food is just fantastic! I was going to stay at a $7 a night guesthouse, but "splurged" on a $13 one instead - Popeyes, right near the beach, very nice, clean, large, comfortable and run by a nice family.

On Feb 12 (tomorrow) I fly Air India to Mumbai and have a hotel near the airport for one night.

Feb 13 I am on Thai Airways flight 340 to Bangkok, staying at Babylon Bangkok for 3 nights. On Feb 16 I join the GAP tour Indochina Encompassed, with full information and itinerary on their website. As that adventure starts, you will likely be hearing from me again.

Oh, I know I have said it before, but I just love India!

Goa

After 7 weeks of travel in the "real" India, I find myself in Goa. First of all, if you have only been to Goa, you have not experienced the true India. That being said, I expected that of Goa, so it is nice to be here, experiencing Western culture and music again. The group is starting to scatter, and I am trying to find the ideal beach to end my wonderful stay in India.

We explored Old Goa this morning, and will head up the coast to check out one of the beaches tomorrow. Katherine and Amanda headed home early this morning, Sam and Sylvia head out on the 9th, and I am heading to Bangkok on Thai Royal Silk Class on the 13th. It will be nice to taste champagne again......

The Killing of Kichaka

We went to see a traditional play in Fort Cochin, Kerala. Beforehand, we got to see the players put on their makeup. And yes, once again, it was only men acting in this play (what is it about this country???). Before the play started, they explained that there would be no words, and that all of the play was expressed in the movement of the eyes (dyed with a red seed that turns them black) and through the use of mudras (hand gestures, familiar to us yogis). It was all quite interesting.

I tried to post a video here, but after a 45 minute wait to upload, I give up. Here is a picture instead.....

Another reason I really love South India

Down to the Kerala Backwaters

Up to a nice breakfast, then we were off through the Western Ghats (mountains) passing spice, rubber and tea plantations as we drove.

We eventually weaved our way down to the lowlands, ending up in the Kerala Backwaters.

Other than the classic tropical island, this is probably many people's idea of paradise. It is lush, watery, tropical and very laid back - the following description copied from the internet:

Kerala - a long strip of enchanting land tucked away in the west corner of India. And what makes it so enchanting is its exquisite network of canals, lakes, lagoons and estuaries - the Backwaters. A trip to Kerala is incomplete without a cruise in its backwaters, which are formed when the sea water gets accumulated at the beach due to the to and fro movement of the Sea. Playing an important role in the tourism of Kerala, the Kerala Backwaters have become one of the 50 must see places in the world.

Not to be missed, these cruises leave you refreshed and rejuvenated. The banks of these rivers are ideal for picnic spots. The canals are adorned with lilies and other beautiful flowers. The lagoons with their clear waters attract many migratory birds as well as wildlife.You can experience the native way of living and their unique way of fishing. See the women, neck deep in water and their hair heaped up on their head like a crown, search for fish with their toes. When they locate them, they submerge and grab them by their tails or a line of men swim abreast stretching a net.

We arrived at the house of another friend of Issac's - Matthew (does Issac know every Christian in South India???). We took a boat across the waterway to the guesthouse, and heard that one of Bollywood's most famous stars was having lunch in the same compound.


























Matthew's mother, Anna, cooked us an amazing Kerala style lunch. Spicy fish, a special local rice, red spinach curry, papadums, chinese potatoes, mixed spicy vegetables and tomato/onion/chili salad. Sweet banana lassi removed the fire from our mouths - flavoured with cardamom and vanillla.















We all took siestas during the heat of the early afternoon, then up for chai and cookies on the lanai, watching the houseboats cruise by.

At 5:00, Matthew led us on a walk, telling us all kinds of information about the backwaters, it's people and traditions. We crossed lush ricefields at sunset, and caught a canoe to paddle through the calm waters as darkness fell.

Paddling in the darkness, Matthew and the 2 other locals on the boat started singing traditional folksongs. Back at the homestay, we enjoyed a candlelit dinner (thanks to rotating power cuts) of traditional home cooked Kerala food.

I have said it before but... does travel get any better than this?














Sunset on the Kerala Backwaters

Just another day in Kerala

Awoke to the cool of dawn, we are up in the mountains, I would guess 1,000 metres. We headed over to the Periyar Tiger Sanctuary at 6:30, before the sun came up.

We met our ranger guide, Raj, who had us put on leach protection gear. It was just a precaution, as ther are typically no leaches except in the rainy season.

We got pulled across the water on a raft, and we were off across a dew covered valley as the sun started to rise. The hike would last about 3 hours.
















We did not expect to see a tiger, as there are only 45 in an area of 1000 acres. But we sis wee bison, a malibar giant squirrel, monkeys, a monitor lizard and lots of birds. we also did have a rare sighting, a couple of wild dogs, something I did not see in Africa.

We had a wonderful hike, and our guide pointed out lots of interesting stuff, including tiger and elephant prints.

Later that morning we went out on a boat on a large lake. We did not expect to see any animals in the heat of the day, but were surprised to see a large herd of elephants come down to drink.

We went back to town for lunch, then I decided to join Kathleen for an ayurvedic massage after that. It was the usual oily Kerala style one, but hey, where else can you get a one-hour massage for the equivelant of $10?

Late that afternoon, Issac took us to a friend's spice garden. Abraham's garden is features in Monty Don's book "Around the World in 80 Gardens". It featured all kinds of tropical palms and flowers. He also gave us a tour and wxplanation of all the spice plants. We saw pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmet, mace, cloves, all-spice, curry leaves, coffee, vanilla, and others I can't remember.

We went to his large kitchen and his wife gave us a Kerala cooking lesson. She did a cabbage dish and a chicken curry. Then we all sat down for what can only be described as a Keralan Feast. We also had rose rice, a local pink variety of rice, plus fish curry, potato curry and about 4 other dishes - mmmmmmm! This was all topped off with dessert of rice covered in yogurt, with banana slices and sugar. Issac, our trusty guide had picked us up some cold beer. It was a superb home cooked meal.

As you may have noticed, my vegitarian rule for India got tossed out temporarily. New rule - vegitarian, except for authentic home cooking.
















What an amazing day......

Kalaripayattu Martial Arts in Kumily

On Friday evening, we went to see a demonstration of an ancient style of Martial Arts practiced here in Kerala State.