Monday, February 23, 2009

Slow Boat down the Mekong














Yes, I think the name almost says it all - slow boat down the Mekong, an amazing way to pass two days. I have seen many of the world's great rivers - the Amazon, the Nile, the Ganges, the Orinocco... now the mighty Mekong.

We took 2 very luxurious minivans (yah GAP) from Chiang Mai, up to Chiang Rai, then on to Chiang Khong on the Thai - Burma - Laos border. Yes, this is the area, check it out on a map... the Golden Triangle! Even China is quite close, making this an amazing strategic area of the world.

We stayed in a nice little guesthouse right on the river, and went out for a wonderful Thai dinner. The town is really small, but has a certain charm to it.

Next morning we were up early to breakfast, the guesthouse packed lunches for us, and we headed over to the river, and Thai exit formalities. It was fairly well organized, and before you know it, we were on narrow little riverboats with our luggage zipping across the river into Laos.

Luckily, our guide had taken our passports and arranged for Lao visas in Bangkok, so we breezed through compared to most people. First impressions of Laos, nice, quiet, peaceful, some French and they drive on the right side of the road!!! Weird after so many months, kind of confusing - I know I will crash into someone when I first start driving at home.

We find our Slow Boat among the many, pack in our bags, take off our shoes (it is someone's house) and away we go motoring down the river. A couple of points - slow boat, in that there are fast boats flying by us, passengers wearing helmuts, flying down the Mekong - does not look comfortable. Also, our captain and his wife and two kids live on board the boat - very cool.














If you are ever stressed out to the max and want to really relax, this is the way to do it. The Mekong is quiet, just a few villages on the banks, it flows smooth and fast, and the scenery is just fabulous. There is not much to do but read, catch up on your journal, play cards, eat and drink beer Lao.














We stopped overnight in the sleepy Lao village of Pak Beng, chock a block full of nice restaurants, bars and guesthouses. We had a wonderful Indian dinner (memories!) and great early morning breakfast, then we were back on our boat heading down to Luang Prabang.

The captain's wife served us up a wonderful traditional Lao home cooked lunch on the second day, which just added to the absolute charm of the experience.


















We stopped at the Buddha caves later on the second day, then at a village where the made Lao-Lao, the local firewater. It was vile and disgusting, and we all had two glasses! We then had the opportunity to buy some local crafts - the weaving and fabrics in Laos are just fantastic, plus it helps a local village.

Late afternoon we arrived in Luang Prabang, Laos, where I sit now in an internet cafe. I am trying to figure out how to describe this place, it is absolutely fantastic. It is probably the nicest little town in the world, and we are spending three days here.

Alas, more to come, but its time to go down by the Mekong River for sunset and have a cold Lao beer.

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