Lunch in Monaco

It is amazing how close some things are to Nice, and how good there local transit system is - trip to Monaco - 1€. Had lunch there, un peut cher, mais bon! Must admit did not really like the place, too Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous, with way to much conspicuous consumption. But hey, I saw it.

Next day was more interesting with another lunch at an ancient medieval village - St Paul. Very interesting with lots of atmosphere, and tons of art galleries. Again, only 1€ on Nice transit.



















Well, dear readers, not to worry, but you may not hear from me for a while. Lots of travel next week starting Monday. Nice - Amsterdam - Berlin - Frankfurt - Jo'burt - Victoria Falls. Dwayne and I will update you in a week or so.

Mon apartement a la Cote d'Azur

This is the view outside my bedroom window in Nice. As I have said, I really like the EBAB service, where you live kind of like a local. Good thing too, as there are so many nice outdoor restaurants here to tempt me. You know how I love atmosphere, and say what you will about the French, they really know how to do it well. But they are expensive, about what ours charge only in Euros. So, I might treat myself once a day, but always eat my breakfast and lunch in the apartment.

Like the rest of Europe, I just wander around a lot. There are a couple of museums I should check out, including the Chagall and Matisse ones. The ruins of the chateau high above the city is beautiful, with spectacular views. The colour of the water is just like in the postcards, but unfortunately the beaches are all stones, no sand! Found a nice little nude beach close to Monaco which was a bit softer on the derrier.

Oh yes, and Monaco is about 1/2 an hour and a €1 busride away on local transit. People have also told me I should go to this little village just across the border in Italy on Friday for their market day. The border is also very close, and I can take the train there.

As you can see by the pictures, it has been sunny here. It did start raining late yesterday and is continuing today, but that means a good excuse to catch up my blog and journal.

My French is getting lots of practice, as my host is fairly chatty, and his English is worse than my French, so we try to converse in French. Amazing how much I have forgotten, but also amazing how many words and phrases I remember. My accent is also good, so people start talking to me very fast as it sounds like I speak French well - not!

I have enjoyed Europe a lot, but have overspent my budget. Looking so forward to Africa and spending time with Dwayne. If I could do this all over again, I would drag someone around the world with me - any takers. Hey, if any of you do have a chance to join me somewhere, I would love the company.

I want to go somewhere Nice

So, are you wondering where I am off to next. As I said, got on the Kayak website, and started searching fares out of Berlin. Lots way out of my range, but several came in at good prices. The best were Rome or Nice for only US $172, round trip, including taxes. Both were on KLM through Amsterdam. I checked the EBAB accomodation in both, and also decided beaches keep me interested for longer periods of time - so I am off to Nice tonight for 9 days. My friend Al, who loves Italy, probably is smacking his head saying I am an idiot!

I am back in Berlin on November 3 for one night, then managed to get a German high-speed train to Frankfurt airport on November 4 for my flight to JNB.

Neil Comments on the World Economic Meltdown

One of the true joys of long distance budget travel is that you are rarely near a TV set with all that depressing news. But, occassionally, like watching a bad accident you just have to look. As usual, it is totally overhyped, but is definitely a reality. I found out when logging on to Royal Bank after being denied access for three weeks (damn Turkish keyboards!).

So yes, my stocks are down, and the Canadian dollar is no longer par with the US. But the good news is the relationship between the CDN $ and the euro is still the same, and that is what I have been spending.

I also look at the fact that most of this trip was paid for by selling my oil stocks a while ago when oil was about $125 a barrel (I bought them years ago when oil was $11). So in hindsight, that was great. I also paid for my ATW ticket, and bought my GAP tours when the CDN $ was at par, so another stroke of luck.

Furthermore, as I have watched $25,000 evaporate out of my RSP accounts due to the stock market downturn, I say to myself at least my withdrawl of money paid for something fun - this trip. Better than the money simply disappearing.

And finally, I agree with Warren Buffet - now is a great time to BUY stocks, some excellent companies are at great values.

Enough finance and economics - the world awaits discovery!

I am a Doughnut

Yes, those are the famous words uttered years ago in this famous city by John F. Kennedy. I think if you leave out the ein, it translates as "I am a Berliner", unfortunately he left it in and told everyone here he was a doughnut. Don't believe me, look it up. I first heard this from a very funny comedian Eddy Izzard.

Anyway, a huge sense of history here, although most of the old building were bombed to bits during WW II. It is a history you can feel, rather than see. It is a history that people still talk about. And, it is a history that is constantly explained at sites all over the city.

The Brandenburg gate is fabulous, and truly a symbol of a united Berlin and Germany. It is so hard to believe that the wall went up and came down in my lifetime. There is almost no trace of it left, except one section with a huge exhibition around it. Chunks of it have been sold off three times over according to our guide, so you are probably buying a worthless piece of concrete. Yes, I did take one of those hop on, hop off city tours, and it was a good idea. The exhibition around the wall was very moving, I got choked up a couple of times. It tells the story of the rise of Hitler, and the atrocities committed. Reading it was quite upsetting, but we must never forget. Particularly poinient was the explanation of the triangle symbols worn by people in the concentration camps - including pink for homosexuals. I was glad to see so many other people reading about all this, especially young people.














Craige would be so proud of me; I got a old East German visa stamped in my real passport. I was told this would not cause any problems - we shall see.

Wondered around the city for a day and a half after the bus tours, covering many of the same sights on foot. Man, I must have legs of steel now. As you can see by my photos, it was beautiful sunny fall weather, clear, crisp and about 12 degrees. And yes, I do have just enough clothes to keep warm in that temperature.

The wonderful thing about wandering is you bump into the unexpected. There was a wonderful German wine exhibit by the huge railway station. Sort of "wine for the senses" kind of exhibit, with a free glass of really good wine at the end. And if you wanted some more, it was only 1 euro per glass - could I resist!














I must mention another discovery I have made on this trip - well two I guess. First is that I am not a true budget backpacker traveller. I look the part, but really do not like dorm beds. I also like to eat at least one decent meal a day, not street food all the time. But I have discovered a great alternative for accomodations - EBAB. It is a gay B&B service where you can stay in someone's home in a guestroom, sometimes shared bath, sometimes private. You also are allowed to use the host's kitchen and fridge, to that also saves money. I really like it because you kind of feel like a local, staying in a real neighbourhood, and doing some grocery shopping.

I used EBAB in Hungary (remember my crazy arrival story) for 25 euros an night, and here in Berlin for only 20 euros. My room in Berlin was even nicer than the one in Budapest, and the bathroom and kitchen were immaculate. Those of my gay readers who are not too hung up on privacy might like to try it - a great alternative to expensive hotels (or cheap dorm beds which typically cost almost as much).

I went to a travel agency a few days ago, saying I wanted to do something interesting, and gave him carte blanche to come up with anything. A tour of Germany, a tour of Eastern Europe, a sun destination, or even something really off beat. And what did he find - nothing! His excuse was it is a German holiday and everything was very expensive.

Well, I got on my favourite travel website - Kayak and stumbled across a couple of good cheap flights. I'll let you know where I am off to next soon.

Ummmm.... where in the world is Neil?????

Clarence and I were to part ways on October 23 - him heading off to Athens, and me planning on hopping over Greek islands eventually making it to Athens.

Well, seems the ferries don't run the way I want this time of year. Soooo, though I could fly to Mikonos via Athens then maybe make my way back to Germany for my flight to Africa.

Hmmm, try $300 plus to Mikonos, and another $300 plus back to Germany. But guess what - Istanbul direct to Germany was only $172. So guess where I am - in Berlin!

Looking for something interesting to do the next two weeks (life gets so boring when one is not constantly going to different places, n'est pas).

I'll let you all know.

Reminder about more pictures

I know many of you are enjoying my blog, but dont forget that many more pictures are organized on my flickr account. The slideshow function really shows the detail of the wonderful camera I have.

The following instructions are copied from a much earlier blog.

Am finally figuring out my camera, this blog, my portable camera card reader, and my flickr account. So, guess I am ready to allow everyone access to my pictures. I have set it so anyone can see them (so pass on to anyone you think might be interested). I believe I have also blocked everyone from downloading my pictures. Any suggestions you all have would be much appreciated (especially from you techie people.

In order to view my photos, type in web address:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/whereintheworldisneil/

Although you can do a slideshow from the homepage, it will be all my camera images in reverse order, so suggest you click on "sets"

Then, choose a set by title/picture

Then when in the actual set, click on slideshow (in the upper right hand corner).

Enjoy!

By the way, the above picture was taken out the window of our restaurant at nighfall on our last night in Istanbul - it just doesnt get better than this!

A trıbute to Aphrodıte

The next day after the tavertınes, we explored another amazıng ruıns, that for some reason ıs not popular wıth tourısts. We met a nıce Canadıan couple, Jeff and Beau, from Kıtchener/Waterloo, Ontarıo on the hıred bus takıng us to Aphrodısıas. It ıs such a joy to explore the ruıns wıth almost no one around. Clearly the hıghlıght was the world´s largest unearthed ancıent stadıum - ıt was huge!

More ınfo to come.

Are you gettıng enough Calcıum?

Headed out across a fertıle valley that remınded me of Calıforıas Central Valley. It ıs very fertıle here, wıth a very long growıng season. There are orange trees everywhere, as well as olıves, peaches, grapes, tomatoes and everythıng else you can ımagıne.

Arrıved at Pemukkale just after noon, and found yet another cute lıttle pensıon. The prıce quıckly went from 40 YTL to 30 then 25 for the two of us (about 10 dollars each!).

The tavertınes (calcıum formatıons) were just steps from the town, so off we went, took of our shoes, and were soon wonderıng through thıs whıte, wet, surreal world that looked lıke snow, but felt wonderful on our bare feet.
















We walked up to the top, enjoyıng the amazıng scenery. We were surprısed to fınd that there were extensıve ruıns of a huge ancıent cıty at the top - Hıerapolıs. The ruıns were not ın as good shape as Ephesus, nor as compact, but the scope and sıze of the cıty were apparent when vıewed from hıgh above.

We walked for mıles and mıles, faırly hıgh ınto the hılls. The maın theatre was partıcularly well preserved - extremely steep, wıth a wonderfully detaıled stage. Checked out the gates to the cıty, the huge maın square, and once agaın - the toılets - yes, I know, a lıttle weırd what they buılt, and what survıves!














Walked back down throught the tavertınes agaın, the water feelıng wonderful on our hot tıred feet. Luckıly our pensıon was rıght near the maın gate. We had a nıce dınner wıth a great vıew of the tavertınes all lıt up at nıght.

A Very Classıc Sıght ın Turkey

Well, here we are at the granddaddy of all Turkısh sıghts, Ephesus. We took a daytıme bus from Kas to Selçuk, vıa an easy transfer ın Ayden. Arrıved at Selçuk and ımmeadıately headed off ın the wrong dırectıon. A delıghtful Turkısh woman ın tradıtıonal dress saıd she would show us the correct way. I commented to Clarence how nıce the people ın Turkey were. She saıd "thank you". When we looked at her kınd of curıously, she saıd " I lıved ın Sydney for 20 years". She spoke perfect Englısh, provıng appearances are never what they seem to be.

Got a wonderful lıttle guesthouse ın Selçuk that as always served a free Turkısh breakfast. The owner and hıs sıster were just great, so frıendly. Every nıght all the guests gathered on the rooftop terrace for a fabulous vıew, and some home made wıne (not bad, really).

We met some really nıce people, ıncludıng a couple from New Zealand, and another couple from Isreal, where Clarence ıs off to next.

We had a nıce dınner ın town, then off to sleep ın our cute lıttle room.

Next mornıng, ıt was all our new frıends and us havıng breakfast together. Turkısh breakfast always has a boıled egg, some cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers, and tons of fresh bread. Thıs one added melon, apple, pear slıces and a fresh orange. Hot coffee or tea, all ıncluded.

A couple from Swıtzerland were stayıng ın the pensıon, and they had a car. We grabbed a rıde to Ephesus wıth them, and arrıved quıte early. We hıt the lower parkıng lot, and started there, even though all the guıdes suggested startıng up top. Thıs turned out to be a good thıng, as we had the fırst hour much to ourselves amoungst some of the best ruıns.

The amphıtheatre, holdıng 25,000 people was magnıfıcant. I had seen pıctures of Ephesus, but had no ıdea of the extent of the ruıns. You always see the pıcture of the lıbrary (whıch ıs the best sıte) but there ıs so much more.

We arrıved at the lıbrary as the hoards were decendıng the maın road, so managed to get a couple of good pıctures. Once the crowds arrıved, at least we were goıng ın a dıfferent dırectıon.

One of the other hıghtlıghts, belıeve ıt or not, was the men communal toılets (I know - yuk!). But they were fascınatıng, and we got the oblıgatory shot sıttıng on them.

We toured ın the opposıte dırectıon of most up to the top, and another smaller theatre. I thınk my photography ıs ımprovıng, and am quıte pleased wıth some of my detaıl shots.















We headed back to town and toured the Church of St John, whıch was just a few blocks from our pensıon. We were dısappoınted to fınd out the nearby castle was closed for renovatıons.

We had a nıce late lunch ın town, the food here ıs even cheaper than the rest of Turkey. Our outdoor cafe had a vıew of an ancıent aquaduct - ıt ıs amazıng how used to these vıews you get!

Another nıce evenıng wıne socıal was ın order, where we compared notes wıth the NZ couple about our plans to go to Pamukkale the next day. That ıs another sıght you see on a lot of Turkısh travel posters - the amazıng calcıum formatıons, wıth water flowıng ınto varıous pools - how excıtıng.

Another long dıstance bus tomorrow.

Turkish Long Dıstance Buses

Turkey has an amazıng bus system. Small buses ply between every town ımagınable, but ıt ıs the large buses that travel to every corner of the country. Clarence and I have been ıncreadıbly fortunate, havıng few problems, and makıng some very tıght connectıons, almost by accıdent.

We have done 2 overnıght bus trıps, and want to avoıd those ın the future. So far, so good.

So what are they lıke? Well, they are always new and modern, often Mercedes models. Comfortable reclınıng seats, aır con, DVD vıdeos, reserved seats and they serve you coffee, tea, soft drınks, and cakes and cookıes for free. Not bad.

They do not have washrooms on board, so they stop every 2 or 3 hours at bıg reststops, wıth bathrooms, restaurants and stores.

All ın all, a great way to get around an amazıng country.

An Undıscovered Medıterranean Gem

Tryıng to break up our trıp, and avoıd any more nıght bus rıdes, we decıded to head to the town of Kas (pronounced lıke cash) on the Medıterranean coast of Turkey. We knew that ıt was not famous for beaches, but heard that ıs was a lovely lıttle town to hang out ın.

And was ıt! Sort of lıke a small Puerto Vallarta or Buzıos, only much nıcer and more perfect. The kınd of place my sıster Laurıe would just love. Clean, comfortable, excellent restaurants and shoppıng, all at very low prıces.

Our ımmaculate pensıon was 20 YTL (17 dollars) a nıght, and as usual ıncluded breakfast. The town has such a nıce atmosphere to wander around, and ıs so nıce at nıght.

Does not help that the weather ıs flawless, sunny and about 80 degrees. I swam way out ınto the sheltered bay, but avoıded swımmıng to the Greek ısland that ıs just offshore (20 mınute boat rıde).

Make a note ın your travel journeys everyone, when ın Turkey, check out Kas.

As usual, more pıctures on my Flıckr account. See a much earlıer post as to how to access.

On to Ephesıs tomorrow!

The Fine Art of Chilling

We did another long overnight bus trip to get to the backpackers haven of Olympos, Turkey. It is located in a spectacular steep, narrow valley, where you must walk through 2000 year old ruins to get to a very nice beach.

Because it is located in a National Park, development is very limited in Olympos. Thus, everywhere there are treehouse accomodations, where you can stay in a very primative treehouse, share bathrooms, with breakfast and dinner included for only 20 YTL (CDN $18) per person. The other option is a pretty primative bungalow with private bath, also breakfast and dinner included for only 30 YTL ($27) per person. We took the latter.














Our hostel is located in an orange grove. You have to duck under the orange trees to get back to the bungalows. The bungalows themselves are quite comfortable, with nice beds, and A/C and heat, which we turn on at dawn (heat that is).

There is a long pebble beach just past the ruins, and the water is still warm enough for swimming in mid October. It is generally sunny and about 24 everyday.

In the late afternoon/evening we hang out in what I like to call "chill pits". These are covered platforms, lined with carpets and cushions. You can just hang out, read a book, write you journal, have a tea or beer, and as the title says, master the fine art of chilling.

The music matches the mood, and it is all very mellow and relaxing. You could say that we are doing nothing, but both Clarence and I are really enjoying it. It is also very easy on the budget.

The food is quite good, with a generous breakfast, and great dinner with lots of vegetarian options.

We also headed out ın the evenıng ınto the mountaıns above Olympos, to see the eternal flames. They have been burnıng for thousands of years, and supposıdly do not requıre reıgnıtıng to get them goıng after beıng snuffed out. Clarence tested thıs theory wıth a bottle of water on a tıny flame, and voıla - thousands of years of hıstory was changed - the not so eternal flames - oooppps!














As our batteries are well recharged, we are off to Kas tomorrow. Not much of a beach there, but also supposed to be a very mellow spot. We still have some highlights to see in Turkey, and are heading along the coast to get there.

Hiding from the Invading Hoards

While staying in Goreme, we took a break from daily hiking to go see one of the underground cities in the area. We took 2 local buses to the town of Derinkuyu, where one of the largest of the cities is located.

Luckily, we arrived before any tour buses, so we practically had the place to ourselves. Hmm, how do I describe this place? It is 7 levels, and goes hundreds of feet into the earth. They were built hundreds of years ago for people to hide from the invaders. The only way to give you an idea of the scale of the place is to say up to 10,000 people could stay there for up to 6 months!

There are huge rock "doors" that roll across the narrow tunnels, blocking all access. The tunnels are very narrow and steep, you are crouching the whole way. There are ventellation shafts that still serve their purpose today for visitors. Obviously lighting has been added, and there is so much to see.

Things like kitchens, wineries, storage etc is labelled. The scale of the place is so amazing. Definitely not for the claustrophobic!

A Modern Stone Age Family

I have seen many amazing sites in my travels, and when people ask what is the most spectacular thing I have ever seen, I always say Igguasu Falls. I now have another superlative to add to my travel stories - the most magical place - Goreme, Cappedocia, Turkey.

The geology of the area has created several amazing phenomenon. There is the "Grand Canyon" like area outside the city. There are the area of vertical columns (which we have another name for). But the most magical thing is the fairy chimneys. How can I describe them. They are solid rock, and shaped something like a giant teardrop. And guess what.... people have lived inside them for thousands of years. Not only that, but now they are budget hotels, so ordinary travellers like Clarence and I can afford to stay inside these cave.














Yes, Neil and Clarence inside fairy chimneys, I can hear the comments now. But it is truly... amazing.... magical.... other worldly. And yes, I have been humming the theme to the Flintstones a few times.














Everyday starts the same way in Goreme, dozens of hot air balloon floating over the village at sunrise. More magic!














The hiking in the area is fantastic. Scenes that look like they are from another planet everywhere. We try to get out early when it is cool, as the desert like climate here means it heats up fast during the day. About 25 C, but feels very hot in the sun. Generally not a cloud in the sky, and very light winds (thus the excellent conditions for ballooning).

While hiking, there are many opportunities to go into cave houses that are thousands of years old. We paid to go into the Open Air Museum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but honestly, we have seen better things on our hikes. As we both have a lot of stamina, we have hiked way back where there are no people, and are checking out "Flintstones" houses on our own.














A word about the Flintstones - there are several references to them in town, including a Flintstones Bar. Kind of funny, and a definite trademark infringement!

There is also a valley in the area that made me think of my friend Peter, not sure why.














The village of Goreme itself is really nice. Some authentic Turkish characters, but very well set up for tourism. As it is October, it is not very busy, just perfect. There are great restaurants to eat in, and Clarence, being vegetarian, is not having too much of a problem.

The magic continues as night falls, and the sun sets. The town is all lit up, and you know me and lighting, really makes for a great setting.














My favourite stop so far on a fantastic trip!

And then there were 2

I have been lookıng forward to some company, so after an overnıght "sleep" at the Athens aırport, was headıng to the exotıc cıty joınıng east and west - Istanbul. I arrıved at 9:30 ın the mornıng, to fınd out that most cıtızens of the world pay $20 to get ınto Turkey. Not Canadıans, $60 please.... ouch!

Hung around the aırport (read Starbucks) and met Clarence's ıncomıng flıght at 3:00 PM. He was a bıt tıred, but glad to see me. I had been studyıng an Istanbul map whıle waıtıng, and was pleased to dıscover I had fıgured out where we were headed to.

We both grabbed some Turkısh Lıra from an ATM, then were off to the Sultanahmet area on the metro and tram system. We dıd pretty well, and were thrılled to dıscover the area we were stayıng ın (the budget area) was rıght between the Blue and Sophıa mosques.

The hostel looked a lıttle depressıng, but we dıd fınd a nıce lıttle hotel wıth prıvate room and bath for only £40. Now that we were splıttıng ın two, that came out to my cheapest accommodatıon so far - and ıt was very nıce.

In spıte of the jet lag, we set out to explore a bıt ın the evenıng. Tons of people everywhere, lots of atmosphere. We walked along the water, gazıng at Asıa across the way - thıs really feels lıke the crossroads of the world.

Next day we were up early. Dıd the Blue Mosque fırst, as ın spıte of ıts spectacular exterıor, was to be outdone by our next destınatıon. The Sophıa Mosque was more plaın on the outsıde, but absolutely wonderful ınsıde. It has been converted to a museum, so you get to see the Chrıstıan and Muslım hıstory. Partıcularly amazıng was the gold Chrıstıan mosaıcs they are uncoverıng (yes, Erın F, was thınkıng of you!).

Walked the grounds of the Topkapı palace, but dıd not go ın. Clarence and I seem to have a sımılar temperment as far as what we want to see.

Walked across the fısherman's brıdge to the north European sıde of the cıty. Walked way up the hıll to an ancıent tower (name to follow). Redıscovered my fear of heıghts as the exterıor walkway sloped downward toward the flımsy lookıng guardraıls. I dıd cırcle the exterıor, but my blood pressure defınıtely went up!














Walked for mıles more (we are also sımılar that way). Fınally ended up at the Grand Bazaar. It was all you would expect from such a place ın thıs area of the world. Clarence bought a nıce sılver rıng, but I just took ın the sıtes.














Had a really nıce dınner ın a restaurant ın our area of the cıty. There are a lot of sıdewalk cafes, and we dıscovered thıs alley just full of them. After dınner, we had a beer on the rooftop terrace of our restaurant, complete wıth a vıew of the Blue Mosque all lıt up at nıght - amazıng.

Next day, belıeve ıt or not, we felt we had seen enough of the cıty, so we made our way to a gıant bus termınal to get tıckets to Cappedocıa. Ummm, bıt of a problem, ıts Ramedan, so only one seat avaılable. A few phone calls later, we had secured 2 seats. Oh, and when does ıt leave? Yes, 9:00 that evenıng, overnıght for 11 hours, arrıvıng ın Goreme, Cappedocıa at 8:00 AM.

So, we stored our backpacks at the bus statıon, and ıt was back to central Istanbul. We had a nıce lunch, took a tour boat up the Bosphorus Straıt for a few hours, then had a wonderful dınner ın our favourıte alley.














Back to the bus statıon by metro, and we were off to Goreme. It was a very comfortable bus, but stıll a tırıng trıp. The sun rose and we arrıved at the most amazıng sıght the next mornıng. Hot aır balloons floatıng over Goreme.