A Travel Update

Just so nobody worries (that would be my dear sister, Laurie), an update of the next week, and why you likely won't be seeing any new blogs for awhile.

I am spending Feb 9, 10 and 11 chilling on Calangute Beach, here in Goa. I have my favourite beach shack/chairs, and the food is just fantastic! I was going to stay at a $7 a night guesthouse, but "splurged" on a $13 one instead - Popeyes, right near the beach, very nice, clean, large, comfortable and run by a nice family.

On Feb 12 (tomorrow) I fly Air India to Mumbai and have a hotel near the airport for one night.

Feb 13 I am on Thai Airways flight 340 to Bangkok, staying at Babylon Bangkok for 3 nights. On Feb 16 I join the GAP tour Indochina Encompassed, with full information and itinerary on their website. As that adventure starts, you will likely be hearing from me again.

Oh, I know I have said it before, but I just love India!

Goa

After 7 weeks of travel in the "real" India, I find myself in Goa. First of all, if you have only been to Goa, you have not experienced the true India. That being said, I expected that of Goa, so it is nice to be here, experiencing Western culture and music again. The group is starting to scatter, and I am trying to find the ideal beach to end my wonderful stay in India.

We explored Old Goa this morning, and will head up the coast to check out one of the beaches tomorrow. Katherine and Amanda headed home early this morning, Sam and Sylvia head out on the 9th, and I am heading to Bangkok on Thai Royal Silk Class on the 13th. It will be nice to taste champagne again......

The Killing of Kichaka

We went to see a traditional play in Fort Cochin, Kerala. Beforehand, we got to see the players put on their makeup. And yes, once again, it was only men acting in this play (what is it about this country???). Before the play started, they explained that there would be no words, and that all of the play was expressed in the movement of the eyes (dyed with a red seed that turns them black) and through the use of mudras (hand gestures, familiar to us yogis). It was all quite interesting.

I tried to post a video here, but after a 45 minute wait to upload, I give up. Here is a picture instead.....

Another reason I really love South India

Down to the Kerala Backwaters

Up to a nice breakfast, then we were off through the Western Ghats (mountains) passing spice, rubber and tea plantations as we drove.

We eventually weaved our way down to the lowlands, ending up in the Kerala Backwaters.

Other than the classic tropical island, this is probably many people's idea of paradise. It is lush, watery, tropical and very laid back - the following description copied from the internet:

Kerala - a long strip of enchanting land tucked away in the west corner of India. And what makes it so enchanting is its exquisite network of canals, lakes, lagoons and estuaries - the Backwaters. A trip to Kerala is incomplete without a cruise in its backwaters, which are formed when the sea water gets accumulated at the beach due to the to and fro movement of the Sea. Playing an important role in the tourism of Kerala, the Kerala Backwaters have become one of the 50 must see places in the world.

Not to be missed, these cruises leave you refreshed and rejuvenated. The banks of these rivers are ideal for picnic spots. The canals are adorned with lilies and other beautiful flowers. The lagoons with their clear waters attract many migratory birds as well as wildlife.You can experience the native way of living and their unique way of fishing. See the women, neck deep in water and their hair heaped up on their head like a crown, search for fish with their toes. When they locate them, they submerge and grab them by their tails or a line of men swim abreast stretching a net.

We arrived at the house of another friend of Issac's - Matthew (does Issac know every Christian in South India???). We took a boat across the waterway to the guesthouse, and heard that one of Bollywood's most famous stars was having lunch in the same compound.


























Matthew's mother, Anna, cooked us an amazing Kerala style lunch. Spicy fish, a special local rice, red spinach curry, papadums, chinese potatoes, mixed spicy vegetables and tomato/onion/chili salad. Sweet banana lassi removed the fire from our mouths - flavoured with cardamom and vanillla.















We all took siestas during the heat of the early afternoon, then up for chai and cookies on the lanai, watching the houseboats cruise by.

At 5:00, Matthew led us on a walk, telling us all kinds of information about the backwaters, it's people and traditions. We crossed lush ricefields at sunset, and caught a canoe to paddle through the calm waters as darkness fell.

Paddling in the darkness, Matthew and the 2 other locals on the boat started singing traditional folksongs. Back at the homestay, we enjoyed a candlelit dinner (thanks to rotating power cuts) of traditional home cooked Kerala food.

I have said it before but... does travel get any better than this?














Sunset on the Kerala Backwaters

Just another day in Kerala

Awoke to the cool of dawn, we are up in the mountains, I would guess 1,000 metres. We headed over to the Periyar Tiger Sanctuary at 6:30, before the sun came up.

We met our ranger guide, Raj, who had us put on leach protection gear. It was just a precaution, as ther are typically no leaches except in the rainy season.

We got pulled across the water on a raft, and we were off across a dew covered valley as the sun started to rise. The hike would last about 3 hours.
















We did not expect to see a tiger, as there are only 45 in an area of 1000 acres. But we sis wee bison, a malibar giant squirrel, monkeys, a monitor lizard and lots of birds. we also did have a rare sighting, a couple of wild dogs, something I did not see in Africa.

We had a wonderful hike, and our guide pointed out lots of interesting stuff, including tiger and elephant prints.

Later that morning we went out on a boat on a large lake. We did not expect to see any animals in the heat of the day, but were surprised to see a large herd of elephants come down to drink.

We went back to town for lunch, then I decided to join Kathleen for an ayurvedic massage after that. It was the usual oily Kerala style one, but hey, where else can you get a one-hour massage for the equivelant of $10?

Late that afternoon, Issac took us to a friend's spice garden. Abraham's garden is features in Monty Don's book "Around the World in 80 Gardens". It featured all kinds of tropical palms and flowers. He also gave us a tour and wxplanation of all the spice plants. We saw pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmet, mace, cloves, all-spice, curry leaves, coffee, vanilla, and others I can't remember.

We went to his large kitchen and his wife gave us a Kerala cooking lesson. She did a cabbage dish and a chicken curry. Then we all sat down for what can only be described as a Keralan Feast. We also had rose rice, a local pink variety of rice, plus fish curry, potato curry and about 4 other dishes - mmmmmmm! This was all topped off with dessert of rice covered in yogurt, with banana slices and sugar. Issac, our trusty guide had picked us up some cold beer. It was a superb home cooked meal.

As you may have noticed, my vegitarian rule for India got tossed out temporarily. New rule - vegitarian, except for authentic home cooking.
















What an amazing day......

Kalaripayattu Martial Arts in Kumily

On Friday evening, we went to see a demonstration of an ancient style of Martial Arts practiced here in Kerala State.