Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Tropical FNQ

That is a common abbreviation given this area - Tropical Far North Queensland. It is the area surrounding the two big tourist towns of Cairns and Port Douglas. By the way, it is pronounced Cans, as in cans of tuna.

It is the winter here, and the temperatures are perfect. Low humidity, and highs of about 26 to 28, lows of 17 to 20 - just ideal.

The area here is beautiful, in that the Great Barrier Reef is close to shore, the mountains come close to the sea, the area is protected Tropical Rainforest (it is the dry season now), and there are wonderful beaches.

I arrived after a full day bus trip from Airlie Beach. Andrew, one of my hosts from Boyz on the Beach, was at the bus station to pick me up. I have splurged a bit on the last part of my trip, staying at a gay B&B. Andrew and Bob are wonderful hosts, and their two dogs, Lady and Boof, are very friendly.














Breakfast is served in the dining and lounge area by the pool. It is kind of a seamless link between inside and outside - there is a ceiling, but no walls. Everything is wide open and tropical. My room is in a connected building. I have a huge shared bath, but as there is no one in the adjoining room, it is all mine.














I bought a package from the guys that includes airport (or bus) pick-up and drop off, 5 nights accomodation, a special rainforest tour, a Great Barrier Reef snorkeling trip, and a trip on the Skyrail to Kuranda with return by scenic rail.














Every second day I just get to relax, and of course they helped me find the clothing optional beach up the coast - Buchans Point. Luckily Cairns has a good bus system thoughout its beach suburbs, so I can get to all these places. Boyz on the Beach is actually in the suburb of Kewarra Beach.

Today I have come up the Skyrail to Kuranda, and am now waiting for the train back through the rainforest back to Cairns. I will write about this wonderful experience in my next blog.



























By the way, this is my bedroom, and the morning view out my bedroom window (notice my big feet). The B&B backs on tropical rainforest.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Sailing the Whitsunday Islands

Imagine the Gulf Islands with fewer people, plunked down in the warm, turquoise, tropical waters of northern Australia. Add some tropical vegitation, and sprinkle with a few powdery white sand beaches, and you have some idea of what the Whitsundays are like.



























Oh, and the beaches..... just increadible!!!! We stopped in the afternoon at Whitehaven beach, 7 kms of 98% pure white silica. The sand is cool, powdery and clean; it squeaks when you walk on it. The water is that perfect aqua blue colour, and very calm, clear and clean. And since the island is a National Park, there are no tacky hotels, restaurants, etc... just daytrippers dropping anchor.














We got underway early in the morning, again being served a light morning snack, along with coffee and tea. Soon after leaving the harbour, the huge sails were raised, and we were off flying through the water.... it was a fairly windy day. I love the way sailboats run so fast yet silent, you feel the water, not the hum of an engine.

We stopped at another island for snorkeling in the morning, then were back to the boat for individual shrimp cocktails - love this company. We were then off to the above mentioned Whitehaven Island for some onshore R&R (like we needed to relax).

While we were relaxing on one of the world's most beautiful beaches, our busy crew was prepping lunch, including BBQ'ing all the meats. After a couple of hours of beach bliss, we were back to the boat to feast.

We once again hoisted the sails, and were off tacking back towards Airlie Beach. Oh yes, forgot to mention, in addition to all the wonderful food, on this cruise we were offered unlimited beer and white wine. Yours truly behaved himself well, unlike a couple of English girls (why are they always English??).

Overall, it was a good group of people on the ship, and we all had a great time.

Heading home we passed an island that reminded me of the Gulf Islands, and I contemplated my possible move to Salt Spring.














Just another day in paradise.

Friday, June 12, 2009

Snorkeling the Great Barrier Reef














Well, it is another one off the list of 1001 Things to Do Before You Die. It is probably up near the top of many people's lists - Snorkeling the Great Barrier Reef.

All the way up the coast on Greyhound, I have been noticing this "backpackers special" for daytrips in this area. It looked like too good a deal to be true. When I got here and talked to the people at my hostel desk, they confirmed it, it is these two trips in the brochures, but if you are a backpacker, you get great savings. I have a Hostelling International card, and this definitely made it worth getting.

The first trip was to the Great Barrier Reef on a really great looking boat. It seemed to include a lot of extras, and was $199. The second trip was on a sailboat through the Whitsunday Islands, again, a real swish boat. This trip was $165. As a backpacker (please don't tell them I don't do dorm rooms!), I could get the two for $199. What's the gimmick - there is none!














So I took the trip, but had fairly low expectations - you get what you pay for. Well guess what, the first trip to the Reef was fabulous, and I am really looking forward to tomorrow's sailing trip.

The staff was just excellent, and they served coffee along with morning tea. It was all kinds of pastries, including scones with jam and fresh whipped cream. Out at the Reef Pontoon, snorkeling gear was free, as were trips on a semi-submersible, trips on the glass bottom boat, and a great buffet lunch. On the way back, afternoon tea of savouries was served.

The snorkeling was amazing. I have done a bit in Hawaii, but this was 1000 times better (and bigger). We had wetsuits, so I managed to stay in for about an hour, as the water is only 24 degrees.














My camera does not work underwater, so I could not capture the feeling. This picture I found on the internet pretty well shows what I experienced.... magic!



On the way home, we had an amazing sunset while sailing through the Whitsunday Islands. That is where I am off to tomorrow on my sailing cruise, including Whitehaven Beach, supposidly one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.

More from Cairns soon.

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Here's to Miss Davis

"So what's in Rockhampton?" asked the Greyhound agent in Brisbane tagging my luggage.

"A good night's sleep on a real bed, I can't sleep on the bus" I replied.

"Right".

Yes, I did head north from Brisbane, and did stop at "Rocky" for the night to get a good sleep after 12 hours on the bus. Rockhampton is the beef capital of Australia (sorry veg family and friends), and sits smack dab on the Tropic of Capricorn, so the next day I was in tropical Australia.

There is another significance to Rockhampton, and is probably why I chose it as a place to stop. It is the home town of my Grade 3 teacher, Miss Davis.

She was one of my favourite teachers, and as a young impressionable child living in cold and wet Kitimat, I remember her tales of Australia... a place where schools had outdoor pools you could swim in year round... a place where you went to the beach on Christmas Day.... you could BBQ your turkey.... there were pineapples growing in your garden! I was fascinated and hooked; I already loved Australia, and I had to go there.

This is why I have followed Australia all my life, and know more than the average Canadian about the country. It is also likely the first seed of my travel wanderlust, that has led to my doing an Around the World Trip by myself.

So, I now find myself heading through Rockhampton on my way north.

Here's to you, Miss Davis.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

The Brisbane Boys














I met David and John about 3 years ago in Vancouver. They were travelling the West Coast, and we hit it off. I invited them to stay at my place, and now they are returning the favour in Brisbane.

I think many of you sensed that I was tiring of travel towards the end of Thailand, and you would be right. Once I arrived in Australia, the familiarity of the place (no, I have never been here, but it feels a lot like Canada) gave me a boost, and I started enjoying travel again.

It got even better when I got to Brisbane, and got to stay in a real home, with real home cooking again (John is a fabulous cook). You don't eat enough fresh veggies when you travel, and the first night here we were out in the garden picking veggies to go with dinner. The dinner was great, just like the company.














We have been touring around Brisbane, seeing the sights, and checking out the town. The city is dominated by the Brisbane River, which winds through town. The skyline is pretty impressive, and gives the impression of a much bigger city (Brisbane population is 1.8 million).

The climate is subtropical, with all kinds of wonderful palms and exotic plants growing in a city that otherwise looks a lot like a Canadian city.














Some friends came up from Melbourne, and are also staying here. A bunch of us went out to a big gay event in the city, White Wolf. Big party, lots of drinking and dancing, not my usual, but fun when you know lots of people. I met many of their friends, and Brizzy guys are a real friendly, casual bunch.

Tomorrow I head north, and overnight in Rockhampton, right on the Tropic of Capricorn. Then I am in the tropics, with 4 nights in Airlie Beach, then 6 nights in Cairns.














G'day mate from Brizzy!

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

My Birthday Suit














I managed to spend my birthday doing what I probably like more than anything else, laying naked in the warm sun on a beautiful beach by the ocean.

Kings Beach is about 5 km south of Byron Bay, and me, without a car. My hostel rented bikes for a very reasonable $5 a day, so I grabbed a mountain bike, and off I went. Closer to the beach is got quite hilly, and I realized it had been a while since I rode a bike, ooohhh, my legs were sore. It was the typical walk down a steep hill to get to the nude beach, and there I was. I found it quite easily.

It was Tuesday, and approaching winter, so it was fairly quiet at the beach. An odd thing happened when I stepped into the forest to pee. There were these weird birds around that looked like small turkeys. One attacked all my clothes, and got scratches all over the shoulder bag that has accompanied me around the world. Some good war wounds for the bag. I shooed him off before he penetrated the bag.

Otherwise a quiet, relaxing peaceful birthday.

I have just arrived in Brisbane, and looking forward to hooking up with David and John.



Monday, June 1, 2009

Byron Bay Birthday














Interesting that I find myself in Byron Bay, Australia for my 52nd birthday. Australia is a place I have dreamed of visiting since I was a little kid, I think my Australian Grade 3 teacher lit the fire. And Byron Bay, so symbolic of the life I seem to be moving towards.

Byron Bay is absolutely beautiful. I was surprised how lush and green it is here, lots of subtropical rain forest with tons of native palms. The beaches are fantastic, with beautiful sand, and great waves for surfing. The place has an alternative vibe, kind of like Salt Spring Island, with lots of new age, alternative therapies and aging hippies. Like Salt Spring, there is also lots of money here.















There are lots of interesting shops and restaurants, so I may treat myself to a nice dinner out tonight. My real birthday will be celebrated later this week with my friends David and John in Brisbane. I head there tomorrow.

Thanks for everyone back home for the well timed birthday greetings - we are almost a day ahead here.

I am renting a bicycle today, and heading south in search of Byron Bay's nude beach.